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The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger, by Heinrich Harrer
Download Ebook The White Spider: The Classic Account of the Ascent of the Eiger, by Heinrich Harrer
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From Publishers Weekly
At 13,025 feet, the Swiss Eiger doesn't approach the height of Everest or Denali, but the sheer rise and difficulty of its 5900-foot north face keeps it in the company of the world's most celebrated peaks. At the time Harrer (Seven Years in Tibet, originally the sequel to this volume) became part of the first successful summit climb in 1938, the north face of the Eiger was considered the "last and greatest of Alpine problems" left in the world. Originally published in 1959 (with chapters added in 1964 and an index covering subsequent Eiger climbs), this riveting account of his ascent and the history of confronting the EigerAbeginning with the first fatal attempts to conquer the north face in 1935Ais a crisply written paean to the mountain where Harrer first earned recognition as a world-class climber. A simple narrative style brings to life the many obstacles faced by Eiger climbersAsnowstorms, avalanches and a continuous shower of falling rocks among them. Harrer has a Hemingwayesque appreciation of the codes, bravery and rules of conduct governing the closed world of "true mountaineers." And he reserves special contempt for the sensation-seekers who gather to watch deadly feats of climbing from the ground below. Sections that document the evolution of climbing gear (Harrer wore no crampons on his 1938 ascent) and national rivalries in the WWII-era climbing community help make this volume an important contribution to the emerging canon of mountaineering literature. Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Language Notes
Text: English (translation) Original Language: German
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Product details
Paperback: 400 pages
Publisher: TarcherPerigee; 1st Jeremy P. Tarcher/Putnam Trade Pbk. Ed edition (September 28, 1998)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0874779405
ISBN-13: 978-0874779400
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 1 x 8.2 inches
Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
56 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#12,533 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
In the 1930s the Eiger Nordwand (North Wall) was considered the last and greatest of Alpine problems left in the world. The White Spider is a portion of the upper face where snow-filled cracks radiate from an ice-field resembling the legs of a spider.The book begins by describing the early attempts to climb the Nordwand, including the harrowing stories of Max Sedlmayer and Karl Mehringer who froze to death in 1935, and Toni Kurz, Andreas Hinterstoisser, Edi Rainer and Willy Angerer who died in 1936.Harrer then tells his first-hand story of the first ascent. Harrer and Fritz Kasparek started their climb on July 21, 1938. A day later, Anderl Heckmair and Ludwig Vörg started their attempt and quickly caught up to them. They combined into one team of four, led by Heckmair. The four men were caught in an avalanche as they climbed the Spider, but all had enough strength to resist being swept off the face."We were all on a single rope. ... One hundred feet above me stood Vorg, safeguarding Heckmair, as he grappled with icy rock, treacherous ice gullies, and snowslides high above us in the mists and driving snow." Heckmair fell as he led the difficult Exit Cracks, but was caught by Vorg, his crampons piercing Vorg's hand in the process. On July 24, 1938 Heckmair, Vörg, Kasparek, and Harrar completed the first ascent of the Eiger Nordwand.Harrer then continues the Eiger story, including the dramatic rescue of Claudio Corti trapped high on the face near the Exit Cracks in 1957. Harrer added a few more chapters in 1964, including the story of Adolf Mayr who fell to his death in 1961 trying for the first solo ascent. After reaching the Second Icefield in 1962 Barry Brewster was struck by a falling rock. His partner Brian Nally tried to care for the dying man, but eventually Brewster fell from the face. Famed British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans stopped their attempt to rescue the now disoriented Nally.The stories of the tragic attempts are chilling, the first ascent riveting, the entire book spellbinding. This book is a great history of the Eiger Nordwand. The appendix is better in later editions because Harrer corrects some of the ascents, given more information like finding the bodies of Nothdurft and Mayer in 1961, and includes the list of ascents up to the 1970s. The photos are very good.
I read this book after it was recommended by Joe Simpson in his book. It would have been nice to see some illustrations so I could imagine where various parts were that were discussed although I did end up googling The Eiger I was so curious. The White Spider is a story about some very brave, humble heros who respected and climbed what must be one of the hardest mountains of the lot.It did drag on a bit from the middle onwards, but still worth the read.
Mr. Harrer reflects the discretion and unselfish character that I have found more often in the accounts given by those prior to approximately 1970. As a product of the 1970s, I am humbled and impressed by his detailed accuracy that is without the slightest hint of self exaltation and reflects a fairness to others that is not often seen today. He sticks to the facts, amazing as they are, and tells a story that has no part in the petty squabbles that occur many times in the accounts of today.
I don’t think I stopped reading this until I finished in 2 days! The true, gut wrenching accounts of amazing men trying to conquer the last great problem of the Alps. The North Face of the Eiger.
I like adventure, survival stories.Heinrich Harrier, one of four men, who were the first to climb the famous, extremely difficult and many times lethal north face of the famous Eiger mountain 13041 ft to summit. There are many mountains much higher and much more difficult to climb ( ex. K2, Everest, Annapurna and more) but the very difficult north face had stopped climbers for years. The book is called The White Spider because part of the north face climb is over an extremely difficult and dangerous section called the Spider. Here is snow and ice climbing with falling rocks that kill men, and avalanches that swept men away to their deaths. Also we see the difficult Transverse of the Gods and more.Harrier writes about previous attempts and successes of climbing the north face as well as later attempts. He writes about women climbers, solo attempts and more. Very exciting and well done.My only concern was he tried to write about so many of the attempts trying to show how or why this attempt failed and this attempt succeeded. You can tell he had super respect for them all. Heroes all, even the few survivors that had shaky conflicting stories of what happened, losing their team mates. I think it would of been a slightly better read if he would of concentrated his writing to his 1938 expedition and maybe 3 more expeditions. There were so many attempts and successes, as the north face was such an important difficult climb. This is partial offset as the reader learns more about different teams, the Eiger and how difficult the north face is to climb. So dangerous with falling rock, avalanches and slippery conditions causing the death of many.4 1/3 stars and proudly added to our family library. I liked this book so much I'm buying Heinrich Harrier's NY Times bestseller Seven Years in Tibet and his Return to Tibet. Harrier a good author, just spread himself a little thin covering so many expeditions.
Very good book if you follow the North Face. Very detailed. Truly a delight for mountaineering enthusiasts.
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